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Post by Buckfever on May 29, 2006 10:32:16 GMT -5
Anyone have one or make their own?
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Post by ncboman on May 29, 2006 10:41:35 GMT -5
I don't have one but I saw some at a great price recently. Now I just gotta remember where I saw it.
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Post by Buckfever on May 29, 2006 11:56:00 GMT -5
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Post by ncboman on May 29, 2006 12:05:23 GMT -5
I saw ;D them on ebay. exampleshipping = fuel to the store? and it may not be there... ;D Seems like I saw one I liked more someplace ...
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Post by ncboman on May 29, 2006 12:21:35 GMT -5
listen to this guy explain the dealI much prefer the long jig as squareness of cut is critical for bh accuracy. Looks well made. We're I a buyer with $$$, I'd offer him 75+shipping and see what he says. ... and I can be very patient.
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Post by Buckfever on May 29, 2006 18:19:10 GMT -5
I'm too cheap.
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Post by Rock Chuck on May 29, 2006 18:37:59 GMT -5
If you have a drill, you can easily make one for the price of an arbor and an arrow saw blade. You can get a blade here for under $5: www.fsdiscountarchery.com/browseproducts/Apple-Saw-Blades-for-Apple-Arrow-Saws.HTMLYou can pickup a 1/4" arbor at about any hardware store and chuck it in your drill. You need to make a jig that will hold the drill with the blade precisely at 90 degrees to the shaft. Personally, I have a Shopsmith that works great. I just chuck the blade and use the miter gauge to keep it square. Dick
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Post by arrowsmith on May 29, 2006 19:26:11 GMT -5
I've got a couple of them. To make a nice clean cut you need the high RPM's. If you build your own arrows or do a lot of playing around with your arrow length, It's well worth getting a good one. Apple's or EAston's are probably the best. Just try to get the higher rpm's. At least 5000. Mine are 5500 and 10000 and you can really tell the difference between the two. Usually they are around 100.00 and up. But you should be able to pick up a used on on ebay. Cliff
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Post by Twanger on May 30, 2006 8:20:16 GMT -5
I was wondering if my compound mitre saw would cut one off clean... probably worth a try on a busted arrow.
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Post by Rock Chuck on May 30, 2006 13:29:36 GMT -5
Yes it will if you have the right kind of blade for the shaft. If you're cutting aluminum, about any fine toothed bladed, like a SHARP plywood blade, will work. I suggest putting a piece of wood behind the shaft as a backer and cutting through both pieces together. It might leave a rough edge, though. After I cut alum, I use a disc sander to smooth it up. I've also cut alum successfully with a band saw then used the sander to clean them up. For carbons, you need a thin, fiber wheel like those used for cutting with angle grinders. I'm not positive, but I think carborundum will work. The trick is to find one that will fit your saw.
Dick
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Post by Buckfever on Jun 4, 2006 21:02:38 GMT -5
Well I went and got this one: www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=42307Lots of guys on archery talk use this one and said it works well. I tried it on an old Goldtip and it cuts them like a dream, a perfectly clean and square cut. I think it is the speed that does it. For $19.99 it strikes me as a no brainer and it opens up lots of possibilities.
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Post by eshoremd on Jun 5, 2006 6:42:53 GMT -5
i think i got the boot from archery talk.
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Post by Buckfever on Jun 5, 2006 7:15:03 GMT -5
I rarely post there as there are a lot of posts there by folks who are compeltely ignorant but just wanting to "fit in". But there are some exceptional archers who post there as well. I principally use it for info gathering via their search function. You just have to weed through the chaff.
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Post by penaltybox on Jun 5, 2006 19:33:47 GMT -5
The saw you just bought looks a lot like the one that is part of that arrow cut off kit on E-Bay.
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Post by ncboman on Jun 5, 2006 19:40:54 GMT -5
i think i got the boot from archery talk. One of the mods there decided he needed to edit my posts to keep himself from looking like an idiot. I haven't posted since.
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