ARO
10 Pointer
WYOMING PRONGHORN
Posts: 302
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Post by ARO on Dec 18, 2005 9:44:11 GMT -5
i want to start trapping this winter, probably coons, possum, skunks. can i use the same trap for all of these? do you use different bait for certain critters?
also want to trap red and grey's, whats the best traps for those two critters?
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Post by ncboman on Dec 18, 2005 11:05:09 GMT -5
ask 3 trappers that question and you might get 3 different answers. lol. The old rule of thumb is #1 traps for muskrats and mink, 1 1/2 for coons, and #2 for fox but none of that is written in stone. If I were starting out, I'd want a dozen #1 single longsprings and a dozen #2 double longsprings minimum. Basic foot trap designs are long spring, jump traps, and coil springs. I like longspring traps because they are easier to set with cold hands and they last longer than the other types. Also they aren't as expensive. #2 traps are usually double springs and my favorite trap is a double longspring #2. It will catch and hold all the game you mentioned and more. Like a lot of guys, I like #2 coilsprings for fox as these are the fastest traps and they are compact, making them easier to work into the set but fox can be caught with any of the traps I've mentioned. There are variations of traps; surehold, softcatch, etc. I've never used any of these personally but I'm sure Hat and others have experience with them.
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txm
10 Pointer
Posts: 128
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Post by txm on Dec 18, 2005 17:47:24 GMT -5
I don’t trap too often any longer but I have about 150 traps and another 50 loaned to a grandson. For the animals that you mention the size 1 ½ long springs or coil spring should do well. If you decide trying for any larger animals you might get a few #2’s. Most of my traps are #2 and #3 coil springs because I trap mostly coyotes and bobcats. Most traps will hold most animals but you need a jaw opening large enough for the foot. I have one dozen 1 ½ and several #4. I found that the best results for raccoon is the 11/2 and 2 with the 1 ½ the coon can’t get there mouth on the foot and chew. You can hold a beaver with any of them if the front foot is caught and it takes #3 or #4 to fit the back foot. I like the coil spring because I find them easier to adjust the pad tension and they seem to close faster. I use heavy tension for coyotes so fox can’t set them off in most cases.
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Post by hatracked on Dec 19, 2005 3:21:04 GMT -5
First thing you need to do is check your regulations. many states have odd trap size and type requirements. Your state was trying to ban foot traps all together two years ago!Grab the games regs before you take anything to heart you read here. Here's some suggestions, but again check your regs before you go dropping a bunch of cash.
If you want some inexpensive 1 1/2 coil springs duke makes a fast cs with a small jaw spread that works well on coon possums and fox. I have also hung otter, bobcat, crows, vultures, beaver, mice and a few other things in them as well. They are quick, easy to bed but do require some modifications to get the best fire to catch rate. I will also mention these smaller jawed traps tend to be real tough on the feet , they typically toe catch fox and flat work em over.
For my own fox trapping I run Victor 1 1/2 wide jaw soft catch traps. I trap for the live market so feet and their condition is of utmost concern . The wide jaws catch higher on the leg usually and are much more feet friendly. I have also caught and held yote sized game in these with very little problem. One of the benefits to this trap in particular is it comes pre modified and works well with very little modification out of the box. It comes stock with a base swiveled shortened chain, and an in line shock spring.
I have bobcat/coyote specific traps as well. These are Bridger number 2 coil springs with off set square jaws.These are obviously a little stiffer in the spring tension and also have a larger pan surface. I have the chains double swiveled and the chains are set up for double staking to hold a large bodied long legged animal .They are probably one of the better yote traps going and theres any number of trap supply houses that are selling these in various grades of modifications.
If the law allows and your trapping for fur and fun. I would buy a dozen duke 1 1/2's and anchoring gear. Your going to have to pick a stake type to match your ground. I use 18 inch 5/8 rebar stakes for most of my set ups but as the yotes have become more and more prevalent I have gone to double staking with shorter versions. This year I am using what they call disposable stakes as many of my set ups are on land I am managing so I will be back in future years using the same sets over and over. I will simply leave the stake buried and use it again next year.
Scents... Three distinct types bait types, urine types, and gland lures. Bait can be everything from a mini marshmellow to nasty concoctions worked up by some trapper with cabin fever affecting his mind. The basic bait blend usually has a pretty stiff odor and works pretty well for anything you want to catch. Tim and Nancy Caven have a great economically priced mouse blend that works great.
Urine is a big plus in fox and yote trapping. I back all my sets with red fox urine or bobcat urine.Yotes are notrious for following bobcats and trying to get a cheap meal so most of my yote specific sets are backed with bobcat urine.
Gland lures are sexual attractants and usually have a long range smell . They work here later in the season when the breeding is actually going on.
Most part I use fox hollow gh-2 and red fox urine with a pork crackline stuffed in the baithole. But that by no means is the only thing that works. You could write ten books and still not come close to explaining the perfect bait setup that worked well everywhere.
I would buy my gear from Minneasoata Trapline Supply. I have never had a bad dealing with them they are fair priced in the market and they ship fast.
Hope this helps a bit, feel free to ask more.
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Post by timwilcox on Dec 20, 2005 0:54:44 GMT -5
Great post hatracked !
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